By plane: Tel Aviv’s (and Israel’s) main entry point for the international traveler is Ben Gurion International Airport (referred to by its Hebrew initials Natbag by locals).
The airport comprises all the usual amenities expected from a first class airport and contains one of the world’s largest duty-free shopping malls for an airport of its size. The airport is the hub for a number of airlines, most notably El Al. It’s also one of the most secure airports in the world, given its location.
Even though the airport is called TLV it’s not actually in Tel Aviv, but rather 15km away in the town of Lod. A further 20 minute drive is needed to get to Tel Aviv. This trip can be done by train, or taxi from Ben Gurion airport. There is no bus or sherut taxi to Tel Aviv from Ben Gurion.
By train: The airport train station is easily accessible at the lower level on Terminal 3 (one level below the arrivals hall). It offers good connection to many parts of the country, including the city of Tel Aviv, with a single-ride ticket to the city for only 12 NIS (roughly $3US). Buy a ticket from the cashier or from an automatic machine, and use it to enter the platform area.
Keep the ticket for use to exit the electronic gate at your arrival station. The train service operates around the clock on weekdays, with 3 trains per hour most of the day and one per hour at night. On weekends and Jewish holidays, from Friday afternoon till Saturday evenings, it doesn’t operate (the last departure from the airport on Friday is at 14.37, the first departure on Saturday at 19.35.
During day-light saving time trains start 2 hours later on Saturdays). Trains stop at all four Tel Aviv stations, with the exception of late night trains that stop only at Tel Aviv Merkaz/Savidor station. The stations are, in order of arrival from the airport: Tel Aviv HaHagana (8 minutes travel), Tel Aviv HaShalom (13 minutes), Tel Aviv Merkaz/Savidor (18 minutes), Tel Aviv University (25 minutes). For most travelers, HaShalom or Merkaz/Savidor would be the place to disembark. Most stations are suitable for non-Hebrew speakers, nonetheless, passengers will often be glad to assist.
By taxi: Working 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, this is the most comfortable and of course, expensive way to reach the city center, with a typical ride price of around 120 NIS (circa $30US). If you travel with a friend or two, it can be a good idea to share a taxi. It is not inappropriate to sit in the front seat in taxis in Israel. It is obligatory by law to use the taxi meter, unless agreed otherwise by the passenger and driver, and a typical ride to the city center should not take more than 15-20 minutes, without heavy traffic. Be sure not to accept fix-priced rides with taxi drivers unless you’re sure of what you are doing; you will always end up paying more than you could have had you asked to use the meter.
By car: Tel Aviv is the hub of the country’s modern network of freeways. The city is easily accessible from Ben Gurion Airport via the Jerusalem-Tel Aviv freeway (freeway 1), from the north by Tel Aviv-Haifa freeway (freeway 2), as well as from Beer-Sheva and the southern parts of the country (freeways 4 and 20). Freeways’ speed limit varies between 90km/h and 100km/h. On other intercity roads the limit is 80km/h. On urban roads the default speed limit is 50km/h.
The city is divided west-east by the Ayalon Freeway (freeway 20), which is the main artery of the city. It is best to avoid commuter traffic in and out of Tel Aviv and its surrounding cities during rush hours (Sunday to Thursday, 7:00-9:00 and 17:00-19:00); especially to be avoided is the entrance to Tel Aviv via Ayalon Freeway in morning rush hour, as it is one of the most busy freeways in the world. Also, it is important to note that Israeli drivers are considered to be rather rude and aggressive in comparison to their Western European or North American counterparts, but, The Israeli roads are modern and easy for orientation (the signposting is in English, Hebrew and Arabic).
Israeli highway police are strict and speed limits and driving laws are strictly enforced. All in all, driving conditions in Israel are much better than in the rest of the Middle East, though accident rates are considerably higher than in North America or Western Europe.
By bus: The New Central Bus Station in southern Tel Aviv (“Tahana Merkazit”, officially the world’s biggest bus station!) offers routes servicing most locations in Israel. It is located within a short walking distance of the HaHaganah Train Station. The building, which is a combination of shopping mall and bus terminal, is more than a bit confusing – in fact, it is almost unmanageable for the infrequent visitor; tourists might want to avoid it and instead take buses destined for the 2000 Bus Terminal (see below).
Nevertheless, most inter-city bus lines depart from platforms on the north wing of 6th floor, except for buses to Galilee (Afula, Nazareth, Tiberias, Kiryat Shmona etc.) which are on the south wing on 7th floor (accessible by escalator from 6th floor). Most urban lines to Tel Aviv and its suburbs are on the north wing on 7th floor (which isn’t connected to the south wing of the same floor!), with several lines on 4th floor which is actually at street level (those are popular city lines no. 4&5, and 44&46 to Bat Yam via Yafo).
To get to Ben Yehuda St. from the Central Bus Station, head to the 4th floor and catch line number 4. The fare is 6 shekels (Feb. 2011). Get off at the intersection of Allenby and Ben Yehuda to find a slew of hotels including the Sky and Momos hostels. A good marker to find your bearings is the Mercure hotel (big lit up sign) on Ben Yehuda, get off around there.
Several urban lines stop outside the station building on Levinski street (north side of the station), and some others a block away to the west on Har Zion street. Sherut taxis depart from Tzemach David street outside the east side of the station.
Check the electronic boards in departure halls for info on destinations, platforms and coming-up departures. If this doesn’t help, ask at the information booths. For most intercity and some suburban lines you should go to Egged booth on 6th floor. Metropoline, which operates service to Beer Sheva (and destinations enroute), also has an info booth on that floor (on the right from Egged booth).
For most bus lines within the metropolitan area of Tel Aviv you should go to Dan info booth on 7th floor (they also handle info on lines operated by Kavim).
If you need info on other companies and can’t find it on the boards, that’s tough luck, because they don’t bother to operate info booths…
Several intercity and many metropolitan destinations are also served from the more user-friendly 2000 Bus Terminal (AKA Arlozorov terminal), next to Tel Aviv Merkaz/Savidor Train Station. North-bound buses stop at Namir Road near this terminal, but at peak times they might be full when they get there. Ramat Aviv Junction (near Namir Road/Levanon corner) is another place where you can board buses to the north, but your chance of a vacant seat is even smaller. Most south-bound buses stop at Holon Junction. The above warning is also valid there.
In general, buses follow the Fourth Commandment (“Remember the Sabbath day”), stopping on Friday afternoon, and only resuming service Saturday after sunset. Some services, however, may start earlier on Saturday afternoon. Minor services may not resume until Sunday morning. Tickets can be bought from the driver, or from the ticket counters in the main stations. For information, call 03-6948888, or *2800 from any phone within the country, A daily bus service is also available to and from Amman through the King Hussein Bridge. Call the operator (04-6573984) for details.
By train: Israel Railways +972-3-5774000, operate train services within Israel. Train service has improved significantly during the last decade or so, and today they are a fast and comfortable alternative to buses for many destinations. Train services connect Tel Aviv to Haifa and Beer-Sheva, as well as numerous smaller towns whilst a direct train line connects Tel Aviv to Ben-Gurion airport.
Note that the train ride to Jerusalem follows the 19th century path, and this scenic route is worth taking at least once, even though taking the bus on the modern highway takes half the time. A new high-speed line between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem is currently being constructed, with eventual travel time of only 28 minutes.
Trains do tend to be crowded during rush hours, especially on Sunday morning, when soldiers return to their bases and students to their universities. Train service also stops on Friday afternoons, and resumes on Saturdays after sunset, in observance of the Jewish Sabbath (Shabbat).
Tel Aviv has four train stations, all along the Ayalon highway. For best access to the city center, use either “Tel Aviv Merkaz” (a.k.a. “Arlozorov” and officially named “Savidor”), or “Hashalom”. “Tel Aviv Ha-Hagana” Station is close to the New Central Bus Station.